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Repair Car with Misunderstanding of OBD2 Diagnostic Tools

Many people might have confusion about obd2 diagnostic tools functions. Why obd2 tools cannot read out fault codes when some vehicles have issues. Actually, many people have a misunderstanding of obd2 diagnostic tools would figure out fault codes when vehicles have faults. 


Here I am taking GM Chevrolet sedan, release accelerator pedal, but when the car engine severely shakes for example.


Vehicle fault symptom: while riding a Chevrolet sedan, slow down suddenly after speeding up, engine severely shakes; shakes disappear after about 30 seconds.


Analysis and inspection: More severe problem when engine is cold. 


Connect obd2 scanner with vehicle, and found no faults codes. Check engine sensors and actuators, but still found no significant abnormalities; measuring the fuel system pressure, normal. After cleaning fuel injectors and idling motor, test but the failure phenomenon still exists. 


After heat each cylinder, and carry out engine cylinder pressure measurements and found that the first low pressure cylinder is lower than normal value; the rest cylinders are normal; measuring cylinder pressure of each cylinder when cooler, found the first cylinder pressure is substantially zero. Hence, open the intake valve chamber cover inspection, found the bottom of the first cylinder intake valve springs, resulting in the release of the accelerator pedal valve spring oscillation, causing the valve to close lax. When idling, the spring has a certain elasticity to meet the requirements of the valve opening and closing, thus operate stably; cooler but not yet built the main oil pressure, so the failure phenomenon is more obvious.


Troubleshoot: replacement of throttle springs


From this repair case, we know that not every car faults codes could be figured out by obd2 scanners. And what is more, obd2 scanners could figure out fault codes, it is a hint for your repairs, for complicated vehicle component structure, faults reasons are various; therefore, being paid attention to combine vehicle symptoms and faults codes read by obd2 tools together. In this way, you could have better understand obd2 tool functions and do better in auto repairs work. 



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How to Troubleshoot a Ford Manual Clutch

A Ford manual clutch uses a cable or series of rods to actuate the clutch throughout bearing. It does not use a hydraulic slave cylinder. These were replaced with the hydraulic style activation to allow for less pressure of the pedal. Manual clutches, however, are easier to maintain and allow for much greater adjustments or different dimensions of the clutch. On a hydraulic clutch, simply turning the flywheel can be more than the slave cylinder can adjust for and causes a no-disengagement of the clutch.


Start the engine. Most clutch problems can be diagnosed sitting in the car. The clutch consists of a pressure plate, a clutch or friction disc, a flywheel, a throw out bearing and the clutch linkage. The clutch is sandwiched in between the flywheel and the pressure plate. The pressure plate uses spring pressure to hold the clutch against the flywheel hard enough that it will not slip.


In the center of the pressure plate, there are a series of arms in a circle angling upwards. When the clutch pedal is depressed, it pushes a throw out bearing against these arms, forcing them down toward the front of the car. When these arms are forced down, they allow the pressure plate to move in the opposite direction and release tension on the clutch, releasing it. The thicker the clutch or the better the condition of the clutch, the more the pedal must be depressed to release the clutch; conversely, the worse the clutch, the less the pedal must be pressed to release it.


Press the pedal all the way to the floor. Lift the pedal slowly and notice where the pedal is before the clutch begins to grab; from a couple inches off the floor to just over the halfway point, the clutch is still good. If the pedal must be close to all the way out before engagement, then there is not much material left on the clutch and it needs to be replaced as soon as possible. The problem with letting a clutch go too long when it's bad is that the rivets holding the clutch material on will begin to contact the flywheel and create grooves in it. This requires replacing the flywheel as well as the clutch, effectively doubling the cost.


Inspect the adjustment on the linkage before condemning the clutch. Look for the arm coming out of the transmission bellhousing on the left driver's side. The linkage can be seen running alongside the transmission used to push on this arm. This is called the throw out bearing release arm. The throw out bearing is attached with two spring clips to this arm. It is on a pivot so that if the arm is pushed toward the rear, the throw out bearing is pushed forward. When the release arm is pushed, the throw out bearing is pushed forward and presses on the pressure plate arms. As the arms are moved in toward the flywheel, the pressure plate releases the clutch.


Grab the release arm and move it back and forth. There should be very little play in the arm; however there must be some because you do not want the throw out bearing to touch the pressure plate when released. This would soon wear out the bearing and the arms on the pressure plate if they were continuously in contact. There should be just enough play that you can feel where it is not contacting the pressure plate. If there is too much or not enough, use a wrench and adjust the adjustment rod to get the right play.


Check the amount of clutch left to see if the car can be driven for a short time (if the clutch is going bad). To do this, put the car in third gear, rev the engine slightly and let the clutch out rapidly. If the car wants to stall immediately, the clutch should go another 1,000 miles. If there is any noise when the clutch is operating normally, then the rivets are grinding at the flywheel.


Check the flywheel for warping. If, when the clutch is engaged, you feel pulsations in the pedal or the car jerks, it needs a new flywheel.


Check the condition of the throw out bearing. If a grinding noise is heard every time the clutch is put in and goes away when released, the throw out bearing is bad and will soon wear out the pressure plate arms, making it impossible to shift or get out of gear. This must be replaced as soon as possible.